External CV joint of Audi 80 B3 – replacement, malfunctions, selection
External CV joint of Audi 80 B3 – replacement, malfunctions, selection

External CV joint of Audi 80 B3 – replacement, malfunctions, selection

The old 80 is famous as a reliable and not too fastidious car. Many people say that they don’t make such cars today, and in some respects they are right. They don’t make them for twenty years already. Nevertheless, hundreds of thousands of Hundreds and Eighties produced in the late 90’s and early 2000’s continue to run on our roads. These cars are loved, but there is no hurry to part with them. One of the unpleasant surprises that an Audi 80 V3 can throw up is the destruction of a CV joint, internal or external. Today, let’s look at how to remove and replace an external CV joint on an Audi 80, how to choose a good one, and how to install it back correctly without mistakes.

Signs of malfunction and selection of external CV joints Audi 80

Near-death of an Audi 80’s angular velocity joint can be diagnosed by several symptoms::

  • characteristic crackling when turning, especially when accelerating in a corner;
  • crunch when driving with speeding up, and sometimes it can be a certain speed range;
  • vibration during acceleration.

Even the most experienced technician will not be able to tell you how to check the CV joint in your Audi to be 100% sure that it is the source of the noise. Only the autopsy can show the real degree of wear.
Moreover, the destruction of the CV joint in the middle of a deserted road on a rainy night will also eloquently tell about the reasons of squeaks, crunches and vibrations. But it is better not to lead to this.

старый шрус
This CV joint is at the end of its service life

Practice shows that the left joint is retired more often than the right, although many experts recommend changing the joints in pairs – external and internal at once, so as not to get your hands dirty. By the way, for those who don’t like to get their hands dirty, there is a prospect of giving from $40 to $60 just for replacement of a grenade (one). Therefore, replacing the CV joint on an Audi 80 is not only useful, but profitable. For that $60, by the way, we can buy a new, albeit not top-of-the-line, set of joints ready to install.



What’s the best CV joints for an Audi 80

gsp
GSP joint with repair kit and lubricant

This kit, in addition to the CV joint itself, should include clamps, dust cap, grease, washers and retaining rings and all the necessary fasteners. Audi insists on replacing everything related to the joint when replacing it. And it does right.

All respectable manufacturers completely complete spare parts, and if there is only a CV joint in a box, it is better to refuse from purchase. It is either a fake or cheap China made of raw metal.

шрус
GKN Spidan, sales leader for 2020-2022

The German original GKN Spidan joints with part number 300850, GKN Loebro, part number 300853 are well proven. This company supplies parts to the assembly line of VAG, so you can trust it. And the feedback from the public is very good. The price of the external CV joint for the Audi 80 B3 is $85, including a full repair kit.

Joints Lpr KAD172 (Italy) are three times cheaper, but run much less. Japanese Nakayama NJ140NY joints are available from $43, and are also well-reviewed. The main thing is not to save money and not to buy Chinese junk not to redo the whole job twice. We value our time and love our car, don’t we?




комплект шрус
Good quality CV joints are sold only with a complete set for replacement

Changing the external CV joint on the Audi 80 V3

The most common cause of joint failure is poor-quality dust covers. They are torn, the grease is thrown out, instead of it all sorts of rubbish gets into the dust cover – sand, stones, water, reagents and the joint quickly falls apart.

To change a CV joint on Audi 80 B3 and B4 is simple enough and it is possible to do it in several ways. The most correct and academic – remove the entire drive, clamp the half axle in a vise and carefully replace both joints cleanly.

комплект шруса
Ruville set ready for installation

But we are well aware of the fact that there is not always enough time for this. That’s why we’ll replace it academically next time. And today we will do this:

  1. Put the car on a flat area (not everyone has a pit or elevator).
  2. Tighten the handbrake, put the anti-roll bars under the rear wheels.
  3. The first thing to do is to remove the hub bolt. As a rule, it has roots, so to break it you have to find a very powerful socket wrench for 24 with a screwdriver and reinforce it with a longer pipe. Coat the bolt with WD40 penetrating grease or something like that. It will come off, it won’t go anywhere.
  4. болт

Tear off the hub bolt only on the ground

  1. Now you can tear off the wheel bolts, jack the car up, put a stand (highly desirable) and remove the wheel.
  2. Thoroughly clean the dirt from everything we see around the joint, clean the nut of the steering link rod lug.
  3. тяга
    Steering link nut
  4. Use a 17 mm wrench to unscrew it and press the pin out of the strut. It is desirable to use a puller, as strong blows on the rod will not do any good to the steering rack.
  5. Use the same wrench to unscrew the nut securing the ball joint, and move the knuckle to the side, using a crowbar. The ball joint should come out without any problems, the main thing is to calculate the correct angle for the placement of the montage.
  6. опора

    Ball joint mounting

  7. Remove the dust cover collars and slide them along the drive toward the gearbox.
  8. Хомуты
    Remove the dust cover collars
  9. The joint can be knocked out by inserting a screwdriver, an extension or something similar into the hole for the bolt. But you can do more technologically advanced – screw the hub bolt in its place until it stops and it will squeeze out the joint itself without any unnecessary gestures.
  10. пыльник
    Remove the dust cover
  11. The joint is held in place by a retaining ring installed in the groove of the half axle, remove it and gently tap on the carriage of the CV joint, holding the half axle so that it does not move horizontally.
  12. кулак
    Remove the joint from the knuckle
  13. Remove the plastic bushing and washer and carefully wipe the half axle with a rag.
  14. смазка полуось

  15. Take out the new CV joint and lubricate it generously with the grease that comes in the kit. Turn the cage several times, adding grease.
  16. новый шрус

  17. Apply a small amount of grease to the axle, on the spline and a little further. This is necessary so that the dust cap fits without problems, it must sit tight. Put on the new duster from the kit.
  18. полуось с пыльником

  19. Put a metal washer on the half axle, followed by a plastic bushing.
  20. шайба втулка

  21. All that remains in the tube of grease, evenly distribute on the inner surface of the dust cap, so it was more elastic, and the stock of grease for the hinge does not hurt.
  22. пыльник

  23. Put the joint in place and fasten the dust cover with collars.
  24. хомуты пыльника

  25. Install the joint in the knuckle, trying to get into the splines, put the support in place, lubricating the pin with grease, so it will be easier to remove it in the future.
  26. шрус и кулак

  27. The ball joint nut is supposed to be tightened with 50 Nm, but I don’t really believe that anyone will measure this force.
  28. Screw in the hub bolt and screw in the steering link rod. Do not tighten the hub bolt all the way in yet.
  29. Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Only now you can tighten the hub bolt with all your heart. Again, with a torque of 200 Nm.

The job is done, we honestly saved at least $100, learned how to change an outer joint on an Audi 80, and loved our car a little more. Good luck on the road!



Залишити відповідь

Ваша e-mail адреса не оприлюднюватиметься. Обов’язкові поля позначені *