Replacing the rear wheel hub bearing on four-wheel drive Dacia Duster 4×4 is not the easiest operation. Perform the work with your own hands is worth it only if you have a certain experience and, of course, confidence in your abilities. Nevertheless, even if we are not going to change the rear hub bearing ourselves, knowing the catalog numbers of the bearing and the main points of the replacement process will never hurt.
When to change rear wheel bearing on Dacia Duster 4×4
There is no clear regulation for replacing the hub bearing on four-wheel drive Duster, because it varies depending on operating conditions and the condition of the suspension
The hub bearing needs to be replaced as it wears out. For some people it can last up to 60,000 km, others can go 120,000 km and not know what it looks like. And it’s not just the quality of roads, but also the way you drive, and the difference in load on the rear suspension and rear-wheel drive. Bearing quality is also important, since different assembly lines and years of production received consumables from many manufacturers.
Be that as it may, the replacement of the rear wheel bearing shines when a number of symptoms are clearly evident:
- A rumble can be clearly heard on the rear wheel side regardless of load or speed.
- Wheel play appears, which can be felt when the vehicle is jacked up.
- An unloaded wheel may jam from time to time.
- Knocking and squealing when driving.
If self-diagnosis showed that the hub bearing is worn out, we will pick up a good part and replace it.
Which rear wheel bearing is better for the Duster 4×4?
No matter what mileage the car has, drivers try not to experiment and put the original bearings
On Dacia Duster 4×4 all years of release from the factory installed bearing SNR GB 41930. Its part number 402109533R, the price of about $55 for 2018. Dimensions:
- outer diameter: 77 mm;
- inner diameter: 42 mm;
- width: 39 mm.
The manufacturer gives a 30,000 km warranty on the bearing provided that it is installed properly.
This includes the use of special pullers and quality tools. As well as the qualification of the master who performs the service.
However, there are a lot of analogs and some of them are almost as good as the original, and there is outright junk.
- Rider RD.2615155114 at a price of about $15, no reviews about it;
- Asam 30838, Romanian manufacturer, price $17, the quality is lower than the original, but some prefer it;
- for $22 will offer Febest with parts number DAC42770039-KIT, good reviews and a nice price;
- FAG, part number 713 6311 80, German quality, excellent reviews, but the price is like the original, $55;
- at the same price you can buy a Swedish hub bearing SKF with the article number VKBA 7000, also has a good reputation;
- Luk 71363118, made in Germany, price $60, excellent quality and high resource.
All bearings are sold complete with a nut and retaining ring, which should only be installed new.
Changing the rear hub bearing Duster 4x4 ourselves
The price of work to replace the bearing at the service station will not be less than 30-50 euros. Not a bad incentive to do everything with your own hands
The rear suspension of the front-wheel drive Duster is fundamentally different from the Duster 4×4. In the first case, the bearing is changed by analogy with replacement of the bearing on Dacia Logan, because both there and there is a torsion bar at the rear.
On the all-wheel drive crossover, we are dealing with a multi-link suspension, so different and bearings, and the process of replacing them. Before we can change the hub bearing, we'll have to disassemble the brake mechanism, remove the cam, then press the part out of its seat and press it in again.
We need a standard set of tools for the job, but we need to add a puller and a mandrel. If you use a sledgehammer, the bearing will not last long. First, let's do all the operations that we did when we changed the rear brake shoes on the four-wheel-drive Duster, which we wrote about in detail here.
Once the brake mechanism has been disassembled and removed, you can begin to remove the spindle.
- To do this, unscrew the bolts that secure the knuckle to the rack, suspension arms and release the knuckle from the drive with the C.V. joint.
- Remove the knuckle assembly with the hub and fix it in a vise.
- Press the hub out of the knuckle. To do this you can use a puller, but you can also use a hammer with a mandrel of suitable size. Better yet, use a hydraulic press.
- There is usually an inner bearing rim left on the hub and to remove it, clamp the hub flange in a vise and slide it off with a chisel. To remove the cage completely, use a two-grip puller.
- Remove the retaining ring from the knuckle.
- Press the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle with a spacer.
- Wipe the bearing seating surfaces on the hub and cam and apply a small amount of grease.
- To press the bearing into the knuckle, use a threaded tube puller or a hydraulic press. The load can only be applied to the outer ring.
- Install the new retaining ring in the knuckle slot.
- Use a press or a puller to mate the knuckle and the hub using the hammerless method.
After reassembly, check the unit for ease of rotation and reassemble in reverse order. The bearing does not need to be lubricated during operation. The hub nut is tightened to a torque of 280 N-m. Have a good day's work and a strong bearing, everyone!