How to replace a timing belt Dacia Duster K9K 1.5 l

The diesel 1.5-liter Renault K9K engine was and still is installed on a lot of Renault’s and Dacia models (Duster, Megan, Kangoo, Captur, Scenic), Nissan Almera, Qashqai, Micro, Mercedes A-Class W177, B-Class W247, Citan W415, and a number of others cars. Replacing the timing belt on a Dacia Duster K9K diesel engine is a common procedure.

When to change a timing belt on diesel Renault (Dacia) Duster

Diesel K9K belongs to those engines in which the timing belt breaks bends the valve. This means that major repairs are inevitable. It is well known that the overhaul of a diesel engine is more expensive than a similar class of gasoline, so try your luck, in this case, it is hardly worth it.

And this is not especially true of the modification of the popular engine. The architecture of the K9K engine from model to model remains typical. As well as the manufacturer’s recommendations for replacing the timing belt: it is changed every 60,000, a maximum of 65,000 km range, and it is desirable to check three times more often.

If you are late with the inspection, you may encounter signs of a worn or stretched belt:

The cheaper the kit, the less likely it is to run its 60,000 miles. You will also have to buy a V-belt drive attachment. Gates 6PK1203 is considered the best, but here too there are less expensive substitutes.

The crankshaft pulley bolt is not always included, so it is often purchased separately. Its number is 8200367922. With a V-belt, its roller tensioner is often changed. Here you need to look at the condition, at least, it will always be easier to change than the timing drive on the K9K engine.

How to change the timing belt K9K Dacia Duster diesel

To replace the timing belt on the diesel Duster, we need a standard set of tools, two crankshaft and camshaft stops (more on this later), a torque wrench, and a jack and crankcase stand, as the engine will have to be hung. It is good to have a sealant for the thread of any manufacturer.

In preparation for the replacement of the Duster timing belt, the right front wheel, engine protection (if fitted), and the plastic cover that protects the drive belt from dirt must be removed. The cover is held on three clips.

With a head or a socket wrench on 16 mm we pull clockwise the tensioner of a belt of the hinged equipment, then we remove a belt.

Unscrew the bolt securing the crankshaft pulley with a head of 18 mm. If there is no impact wrench, engage the fifth gear and ask the assistant to depress the brake to lock the crankshaft. At this time, break the bolt pulley head with a long collar.

Remove the crankshaft pulley, check it for beating, disconnect and remove the turbine wiring harness.

On the perimeter of the plastic casing click four latches, you can do it by hand.

Jack the engine through the crankcase. We use a wooden spacer so as not to damage the crankcase.

Unscrew the right support of the engine with a head of 16 mm. First, unscrew the body bracket to unload the engine mounting bolts.

Remove the fuel supply and return hoses, dismantle the right engine mount.

Unscrew the single screw (bit T25) in the center of the upper cover, discard the two latches and remove the timing cover.

Remove the right engine mount bracket by unscrewing the 4 head bolts by 10 mm. Their location is shown in the right photo.

Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft with a 16 mm head until the marks on the camshaft pulley and the high pressure fuel pump pulley are set for approximately 11 hours.

We are looking for a bolt plug on the cylinder block. It must be unscrewed with the E14 head to replace the restraining rod.

It is necessary so that the counterweight of the crankshaft rested against it and did not allow the shaft to scroll further than required by the establishment of the top dead center of the first cylinder.

Scroll the crankshaft clockwise until the counterweight rests on the limiting rod.

Stop the camshaft. To do this, insert a device or drill 8 mm through the camshaft pulley into the hole of the blockhead. TDC of the first cylinder at the compression stroke is set.

With a head by 8 mm we weaken three bolts of fastening of a pulley of a camshaft.

Remove the timing belt tensioner. To do this, unscrew the bolt with a 13 mm head and remove the roller together with the bolt.

Remove the timing belt.

Thoroughly blow the timing zone with compressed air, it is very desirable to treat all surfaces with a brake cleaner or other aerosol cleaner. This is extremely necessary, because all the remaining garbage will inevitably fall on the new belt.

Combine the marks on the pulleys of the camshaft, fuel pump, and crankshaft (the mark is exactly 6 hours) with the marks on the new belt.

In addition, pay attention to the direction of movement of the belt, which is indicated by arrows.

We install a tension roller, having got a ledge strictly intended for this purpose a groove. Twist the roller by hand.

When the roller is installed, we put in place a new belt, combining the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys.

Installation begins with the crankshaft, then starts on the pump and fuel pump, and then on the camshaft.

Finally, run the belt on the tension roller.

Before tensioning the belt, pay attention to the position of the camshaft pulley relative to the slots. If the pulley is in order, not worn, the bolts will remain in the center of the slots when the roller is stretched.

Turn the roller with a 6 mm hexagon until the check box appears in front of the lower protrusion of the belt tension indicator. Tighten the tension roller bolt to 26 N∙m.

After tensioning the belt, tighten the three bolts securing the camshaft pulley with a force of 14 N∙m.

We take away all the stoppers. Turn the crankshaft two turns of the camshaft and check the coincidence of the marks again. In the process of reverse assembly, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a force of 120 N∙m, then another 95 degrees.

Assembly of the engine is performed in reverse order.