Restoration, repair of the left Engine Mount of Volkswagen, Skoda, Audi, Seat
Vibration transmitted to the cabin, squeaks, tapping in the engine compartment – these are the main symptoms that the left engine and gearbox mount on any VAG cars – Volkswagen, Skoda, Audi, Seat – produces. The price of a new original mount can confuse many. Therefore, we suggest considering the restoration and repair of the VAG engine mount as at least a temporary measure.
Left transmission and engine mount VAG. Resource and articles
The tasks of the engine and gearbox mounts include damping vibrations from the power unit and mitigating its impact on the car body when driving over bumps.
Practice shows that the original support is quite capable of withstanding 70-90 thousand km of mileage. In some cases, squeaks appeared after 100-120 thousand depending on the driving style and engine size.
You can check the condition of the mount by pushing the idle engine with the gearbox in the transverse plane. We will hear obvious creaks and knocks, or feel too much backlash of the unit.
Signs of malfunction of VAG engine mounted
Here are the most common signs of wear of the spare part: At different stages of wear, the signs may differ in intensity. But in any case, they need to be eliminated as soon as possible. If the problem is allowed to run, it will affect the condition of the spar, the cylinder block and, of course, the comfort in the cabin. Reviews of Volkswagen, Skoda, Seat and partly Audi owners show that the original mounts are not the most reliable way out, but the most expensive. However, there are cheaper and not much worse options. Note that the original left gearbox and engine mount of VAG cars has catalog numbers 1K0199555N VAG. Its price for 2023 is from $100 to $120. Compared to more complex units, the price of the gearbox support is completely unjustified. However, there are analogues. For example:
creaking, knocking when starting the engine, especially at low temperatures; the same symptoms when driving over bumps, speed bumps, dirt roads, rocky soils; creaks and knocks partially stop as the engine warms up in winter; after running more than 150 thousand km, knocks and squeaks can be constant and do not depend on temperature and load; it is possible that vibrations will be transmitted to the gearshift lever.Which left engine mount (gearbox) VAG is better, prices
Swag 32922726; STC T404867; Lemforder 3314301, 3623701; Corteco 80001236; Meyle 1001991099; Febi 22726; PATRON PSE30687; Corteco 80001236, for AT.
And this is if you do not take into account a bunch of offers for showdowns both in Ukraine and in Poland. There, the prices are $50-60. But for used mounts. If you can, the problem can be temporarily solved with the help of a hydraulic mount from Audi. Its number is 8J0199555D VAG, but it costs more than $110.
The mount fits one hundred percent, and the effect will be identical, but the cost of such a replacement, especially on cars with high mileage, is unlikely to pay off. The hydraulic support differs from the usual VAG one by the content of elastic gel in the holes. But before making such a decision, it is worth considering more budget options.
How to remove the left engine mount (gearbox) of Volkswagen, Skoda, Audi
To dismantle the left engine mount and gearbox on VAG cars, you need to remove the left wheel and wheel arch protection (locker). After that, you need to lift the engine together with the box with a jack by 150-200 mm in order to remove the load from the mount.
Then unscrew four bolts with an 18 mm socket and one with a fifteen mm head (it's VAG, sorry).
After that, lower the engine so much that the mount freely comes out towards the cylinder block. Here it is in our hands.
How to restore the engine mount Volkswagen, Škoda, Audi
Theoretically, the engine mount is not disassembled, because we see rivets on the bottom of the metal holder of black color. In the photo, they are marked with arrows.
But you will have to disassemble the engine mount in order not to spend 30 bucks at least for a new one. Rivets do not play a very important role, because the metal clamp is pressed during installation. Therefore, rivets can be safely replaced with bolts.
To do this, you need to drill out the rivets. Take a sharp drill for 5-6 mm, pre-tap the aluminum rivets. Drill with a 4-6 mm drill bit.
Change the 6 mm drill bit to a larger drill bit to drill out the rivet block. Now you can remove the black metal bracket.
Assess the condition of the rubber buffer. If there are no breaks, obvious cracks, destruction of the perforated cushion, we will try to restore it.
This will require a set of old punctured high-voltage wires. Or, better, a hose of appropriate diameter made of silicone with thick walls. It can be found in a medical supply store. The point of this upgrade is to restore the elasticity of the rubber buffer.
There is only one difficulty. How to fit a wire or hose of the same diameter as the hole into the same hole. But this is also solved with the help of grease or motor oil. In practice, silicone spray works best.
After refinement, we drill holes in the places of rivets and cut M6 threads in them. Then fix the bottom cover with 6 mm screws. You do not need to do this, but it is still worth cutting the thread to simplify installation.
If there are concerns that the support will be too stiff after repair, you can place wires or hoses in the holes in a staggered pattern, or leave one row empty. In general, the restored support will usually last up to 80-90 thousand km, after which it will have to be replaced.
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